#15 Sullivan Bay Yet Again

The weather blew outside the Inlets last night but we barely felt anything in Nugent Cove. High winds are forecast for the next several days and the few minutes of cell phone service shows Alex has many messages. So we plan to exit the Inlets via Nakwakto Rapids, of course, and anchor in Miles Inlet just off the QC Strait and hopefully in cell range.

We now know to add, not subtract, an hour to the Canadian current table and compute slack tide at 9:53AM. We pull our single trap and are able to plan on prawns in cocktail sauce for tonight's starting course, but our catch does not provide a huge bounty: prawn omelets, BBQ prawns, and prawns in pasta will have to wait.

By 9AM we are underway towards the Rapids and this time we arrive at 10AM near slack, with less than a knot of current. We follow Schooner Channel out to the QC Strait and note 1-meter seas and a building breeze. After a short conference, the Admiral OKs a return to Sullivan Bay. We ran downwind along QC Strait northeastern coastline with following seas and a 2+ knot current push. As wind and sea built the boat easily handled to conditions and we arrived after 2PM.

We passed 2 long-liners on the way north to Alaska for the summer fisheries openings.

#14 Nugent Sound

Strachan Bay served up a well protected anchorage. The weather forecast calls for gale force northwest winds tonight, so we'll need another protected anchorage. There are none further up Belize Inlet, but Nugent Sound offers a splendid cove with good NW protection.

Not wanting to miss Belize's sights. We cruise east deeper into the Inlet enjoying three waterfalls and half-dome mountain. We see one other vessel, a small pocket cruiser on his way to Strachan Bay for better shelter.

Pretty falls on the north side of Belize Inlet.

Falls with Halfdome Mountain in the background.

After the falls, we reverse course heading west then south, passing behind Nakwakto Rapids, turning east again into Nugent Sound, and finally Nugent Sound Cove. This cove is quite secure and beautiful, our favorite of the season to date. We set the prawn trap nearby in 300 feet
and check into the BC Boaters Net at the 5PM roll call. This is a ham radio 2-meter FM network that provides communication among boaters on the Inside Passage. It covers both sides and the entire length of Vancouver Island, which will keep us in touch when we circumnavigate the Island in July.

Tug with lengthy log tow waits for slack current behind Nakwakto Rapids.

Tremble Island in Nakwakto Rapids from the inside looking out near slack current.

Nugent Sound Cove, our favorite to date (to be uploaded later).

#13 Strachan Bay via Nakwakto Rapids

This morning we were lazying around waiting to depart at about 11AM to make slack current at the dangerous Nakwakto Rapids, predicted per the Canadian Current Tables at 11:33AM. Actually Pat didn't know how dangerous the rapids could be until she read yesterdays blog. So as we're getting pumped up for the Rapids, I realize that it's "Spring forward, Fall back." The Canadian Table gives times for slack current in Pacific Standard Time not Pacific Daylight Time. So when the slack tide is at 12:33PM PST, that's 1:33PM PDT, not 11:33AM PDT. Whoops! Realizing the miscalculation, we immediately pull the anchor and get going at 9:30AM. We'll be about 2 hours late for the 8:14AM slack, which lasts for less than 10 minutes. The tidal current is pushing us up narrow Schooner Channel and we are approaching the rapids with an added 3 knots. At the Rapids, the water is churning, and Pat would rather me drive than take pictures. She's giving out lots of advice! We swoosh past Tremble Island at over 15 knots across the bottom, avoiding several whirlpools that sort of appear out of nowhere. It's over in about 4 minutes and once past the Rapids, Seymour Inlet is totally serene. Pat disappears below to use the head.

Tremble Island (aka Turret Rock) is dead center of Nakwakto Rapids. It is said, the 20mph current causes the island to tremble. Many daring crew have landed and posted signs with the yacht names that have braved the rapids. The Wild Blue crew has no sign posters.

Looking northwest up Seymour Inlet from just inside the rapids.

"East of the Nakwakto Rapids a magical world opens up" notes Don Douglass the author of Exploring Northern BC. Another notable Alaska cruise veteran Harriott Squire would likely say "Rocks and trees. Trees and rocks." We'll check it out this week and form our own opinion.

We noted several logging camps dotting the shores of Belize Inlet.

We anchored in Strachan Bay, a well protected anchorage. We had neighbors: our first in a day, their first in 7 days inside these inlets.

Another neighbor with which we shared the bay, invited us to dinner ashore. We declined, not wanting to be the main course.

#12 Skull Cove

Last night's turkey cooked in hot oil was really great. It was served with mashed potatoes, turkey gravy, cranberry sauce and stuffing: the things to remind us of home and family. We enjoyed the company and stories of Mike and Susie from Seeker. They're headed around Cape Caution on the way to Alaska and we'll tag along as far as Skull Cove.

A movie panorama of Sullivan Bay located on BC's mainland coast across QC Strait from Port McNeill.

Just before 5AM today Seeker and Wild Blue left Sullivan Bay bound for points north. The early morning departure allows for more cruise time before the westerly winds and seas build, making crews uncomfortable. When attempting to round Cape Caution, the first of two ocean exposed crossing for Alaska bound ships, every captain has a Plan B. If it gets nasty you may need to bail, and put into a safe port. That was the Seeker crew mentality for today's run north. Fortunately the weather gods smiled on the boats revealing flat seas and calm winds for Queen Charlotte Strait, Sound and the Cape Caution rounding. The boats shadowed each other as far as Skull Cove. Seeker continued in the great conditions, while Wild Blue anchored in the Cove for easy access to Seymour and Belize Inlets, 50-mile long waterways, stretching easterly into the BC mainland.

Tugs and tows: a typical scene on the inside passage between Washington and Alaska.

Seeker prepares to round Cape Caution headed for Alaska

On the approach to Skull Cove anchorage, a series of small islands offers relief from ocean swells via narrow passages. Wild Blue enjoyed the flat calm seas and scenery of this shortcut.

At last the Wild Blue is anchored in Skull Cove.

Once anchored we launched the dinghy and explored the approach to Nakwakto Rapids, the barrier we need to cross for access to the Seymour and Belize Inlets. These Rapids are among the fastest in the world, approaching 20 mph peak speed. A 10 mph boat is no match for 20 mph current. So we'll time are crossing at slack current which is forecast to occur at 1133 tomorrow. The slack water lasts about 8 minutes while the current direction reverses. It should be another thrilling day aboard, one that Pat isn't particularly excited about.

While exploring in the dinghy we entered Cougar Inlet. We didn't see any Cougars, but then we haven't scene any Skulls in Skull Cove so far. We did see a black bear along the shore on our return. We couldn't get him to pose for a photo. We suspect he ate all the cougars and skulls.

Cougar Inlet was a cat free zone.

#11 Back to Sullivan Bay

Today we arose early for a 3-hour cruise to Sullivan Bay just across the Queen Charlotte Strait. The Bay is a good starting point for heading north, around Cape Caution on the way to Alaska, however we are using it as our first stop on our cruise to Belize Inlet. The sea was flat and the 6AM winds were calm.

Yesterday we focused on supplies. We marketed for fresh produce then stocked up on Sleamans Honey Brown lager. If it warms up we'll need it to keep the crew from mutiny. After all, later this cruise we visit Bligh Island. That's right, the island is named after the famous Captain Bligh, although he was Lieutenant Bligh at the time, under Captain Vancouver. Yes, we must keep our crew happy!

While testing gear on Saturday, noticed a small seawater leak under the generator raw water pump. This is a sign the shaft seal is wearing out. Ordered another complete pump online via Ebay. Hope to get it shipped to Port McNeill later this month for pickup. More on this later.

Just as we left left Port McNeill we encountered a flotilla of small fishing boats led by the mothership Northern Rendezvous. Pat thinks the fisherman and gudes stay about the mothership, while alex thinks the boats are on the way to a lodge further north.

Fishing Convoy with Mothership

Malcolm Island's Pulteney Point Light Station

Pacific Coastal now offers floatplane service to the Broughton Island region, something new for them. This flew in-and-out of Sullivan Bay.

Moored at last in Sullivan Bay just behind Seeker, a another great Selene yacht.

In Sullivan Bay met up with Mike and Susie on Seeker, another Selene. The Seeker owners are from San Luis Obispo as well. Amazing that of the about 350 Selene boats worldwide, two are owned by residents of the same, rural California County.

Dinner tonight at the Sullivan Bay restaurant is turkey cooked in hot oil! Even Willie Bird's mouth will be watering for a taste of that bird. Last bird we tasted, boiled in hot oil, was prepared by Cousin Bob before a UCLA basketball game, some 15+ years ago. It was grrrrrrreat!

Early tomorrow we hope to get out on the Strait early headed for Allison Harbour near to Nawankto Rapids and the entrance to Belize Inlet. See you then.

#10 Getting Back to the Boat

For the past three weeks the Wild Blue has been moored in Port McNeill, British Columbia. Today Pat and I are doing a car, 3 planes and a taxi to get back to cruising. We spent the night near San Jose Airport then moved the car to the Marriott's long term parking, rode Alaska Air to Portland, then Horizon Air to Vancouver, and Pacific Coastal Air to Port Hardy Airport. Finally, our friend the taxi driver met us at the airport for the 1/2 hour ride to Port McNeill.

The last flight was in a tiny twin-engine plane with just 11 seats. You kind of had to crawl into your seat. Alex, who has been a bit claustrophobic lately, sat just behind the pilot. To keep his mind off the heat and restricted space, Alex photoed the pilots in action.

Taking Off from Vancouver

Landing in Port Hardy

#9 At Home in SLO Town

We had a nice stay at home. Pat tended her garden and Alex tended his horse, card game and business. We're ready to get back to boating this weekend.

The weather in the Pacific Northwest has been overcast, windy and stormy over the past three weeks. We've enjoyed the sunshine and warm temps here in San Luis Obispo, California. The video below shows a sample of California's Central Coast weather and its wonderful product. Now it's back for more adventures in British Columbia.

Pat's Front Yard.