#14 - Logging Miles

Today's goal is northwestward as far as the wind and seas let us comfortably go.  We hope to make Hartley Bay.  Further would be great.  It was daylight at 5AM when we exited the Bottleneck and this departure time helps us utilize favorable current.  We continued up Findlayson Channel exiting at Hiekish Narrows onto Princess Royal Channel.  Larger fishing boats and tugs pulling barges led and followed. We passed by Butedale, another nearly abandoned cannery town.  The wind and seas stayed moderate so we passed Hartley Bay, motoring over the top of the wrecked Queen of the North BC ferry, and entered the monotonous Grenville Channel, just hoping to make Lowe Inlet before the tide changes against us.  At Lowe we were still being pushed by the current and the weather was great, so we opted for Klewnuggit Inlet.  By Klewnuggit the tide reversed in our favor so we kept going, making it a 12-hour day until Kumealon Inlet.  

We anchored at the head of the Inlet and consulted the skipper of Jeannie, a sailboat anchored here too.  The BC forecasters had been carrying on and on about gails and lows, but our barometer was steady.  So the topic was the weather and the Jeannie skipper was pretty sure that the wind would stay down overnight.  We differed, pulled anchor, backtracked 3 miles to Baker Inlet, "the best weather fortress on Grenville Channel" per the Douglass guide. We ran Watts Narrows at 8PM slack water and re-anchored at the head with two prawners and the 140-foot passenger ship Island Spirit. Apparently others like the security of Baker.

A pretty waterfall on Princess Royal Channel.

Butedale continues to deteriorate. 

Butedale's pretty waterfall.

Crab cakes ready for the pan.

Side one almost done.

Ocean Falls crab cakes and Popeye's favorite.

#13 Back on the Inside Passage

It's been a fun digression, cruising a bit off the Inside Passage the last several days.  Now we need to make time to Ketchikan.  Last night the temperature at our Roscoe Inlet anchorage dropped to near freezing.  On our exit down the Inlet we see the snow line down to about 500 feet making for more incredible sights along the way.

Seeker stays anchored under freshly snow-dusted peaks.

Every view is a picture postcard.

From the bottom up: blue waters, green forest, gray cloud, white mountain.

Once outside the Inlet we turn southwest down aptly named Return Channel towards Millbanke Sound.  At busy Seaforth Channel we turn west with tugs, and other commercial and pleasure craft.  As we motor westward, the ocean swell is starting to filter into the Channel making for an unfriendly ride.  Luckily Reid Passage is close so we turn north, taking the longer route via Mathieson Channel, then  Jackson Narrows to Finlayson Channel and the main Inside Passage thoroughfare.  While in Mathieson, Pat spots a few Dall's Porpoises who hear us from about a half-mile away and know it's their duty to escort every passing craft!  They stayed with us for 2 miles, almost 20 minutes. 

At the west end of Jackson Passage is a fish farm.  There are many fish farms in BC but this is an unusual one in that boats from both directions slow down, or even stop for short periods, just in front of the farm.  That can only mean two things: a crazy salmon run, or a wi-fi access point. We accessed the "jackson" AP and retrieved our email, the news, latest marine weather, and remote desk-topped into the office computer in California..  The speed was good, maybe even enough Skype.  It's a great service for fisherman in a remote place.

Not only a fish farm, but also a speedy wi-fi "open" hot spot!

The BC text marine weather forecast once again calls for big winds tonight, so we will need to get to Bottleneck Bay, another secure weather fortress.  It means an 8-hour run but the Bay gives great piece of mind and sets the stage, given favorable weather, to gain many miles tomorrow.

Bottleneck Bay from the inside looking out.

#12 Incredible Roscoe Inlet

This past few days we encouraged the Seeker crew to visit Bella Coola and Eucott Bay and they seemed impressed.  Nevertheless, all week long they've been ranting and raving about Roscoe Inlet.  Today the Wild Blue crew followed Seeker as we departed Ocean Falls, yanked up our crab traps, setting a course for the bitter end of Roscoe Inlet.  By the way, the Seeker trap yielded 6 large male crabs, primarily because they fish crab with organic chicken breasts.  Our leftover $29 Canadian lamb loin bones were not a hit with any sea creatures.  Even the ubiquitous starfish shunned the lamb. Thankfully the Seeker crew offered to share their bounty.

It's a 6-hour motor from Ocean Falls to the end of Roscoe Inlet: first it's down Cousins Inlet, then up Johnson Channel, and then the Inlet begins.  A 50-mile run to get just 5 miles north of Ocean Falls!  However we began to be impressed as we cleared Roscoe Narrows, with 90 minutes to go!  Giant snow-covered peaks begin to line the route at the Narrows.

50-mile journey to get 5 miles north of Ocean Falls.

Snow covered high peaks line Roscoe Inlet

Think of all the granite counter-tops this mountain would provide!

We continued following Seeker deeper into the Inlet, seeing no other boats, and losing all radio contact with the outside.  The mountains cast long shadows, further enhancing that feeling of isolation.  The ocean was glassy and the wind calm.  The scenery was as breathtaking and the feeling was spooky!. Suddenly a storm began pelting us with hail as it snowed up high. It was a short-lived storm and we were brought back to reality as Seeker decided to set a prawn trap.

Ribbon waterfall from up high.

At long last we reached the bitter end of the Inlet and anchored in deep water of 75 and 100 feet. This is a spectacular place rivaling Princess Louisa Inlet.  We will make this anchorage again on our return from Alaska. 

Tomorrow we need to get going back on the Inside Passage.  We will leave the Seeker crew to enjoy Roscoe for another day.   Tonight it's fresh crab and stuffed grape leaves to celebrate.  Chow....

Seeker's anchorage and view at the end of Roscoe Inlet.  Not bad!

 Wild Blue's view.

Stuffed lamb grape leaves, warm Ocean Falls Dungeness crab, and stuffed vegetarian grape leaves capped a great spring cruise with the Seeker crew.

#11 The Quest for the Best Water

So Alex awakes at 6:30 AM somewhat clear-headed, checks the instruments and ponders.  The boats are in 11-feet of depth on Eucott Bay.  The tide is at 6-feet and falling to a low of ½ foot within 2-hours.  11 minus 6 equal 5.  The boats need 5 ½ to float.  Uh Oh!

“Pat get up!  We are leaving now!”.  Then “HOOOONK, HOOOONK, HOOOONK” on the loud Kahlenberg air blast horn to wake the Seeker crew. “Seeker, Seeker, Wild Blue calling, over” on the VHF.  No activity or response from the Seeker.  Those sleepy heads.

We quickly shorten the dinghy painter for towing, and raise the anchor.  In less than 10 minutes Wild Blue is alongside Seeker, bow and stern thruster blasting, which turns out to be the best way to get someone up from below.  Finally Susie stirs and Mike opens the pilothouse door.  We quickly announce our findings, that we are leaving, and they need to go too.  They respond with a record time anchor retrieval.  As it turns out we exited on the falling tide of +5 feet and maintained our 3-feet clearance over the shallow spot. Whew!

The view just outside Eucott Bay, British Columbia

Once outside in deep water the Admirals (girls) drive the boats while the Captains (boys) man the dinghy and retrieve crab and prawn traps.  The traps yielded large girlie crabs and a few prawns.  The girls crabs are set free.  We stow the traps, dinghy and crew aboard the boats and begin our cruise to Ocean Falls.

Along the way we visited the site where Alexander Mackenzie completed the first coast to coast crossing of North America, some 13 years before Lewis and Clark. Mackenzie waited here for Captain Vancouver, who he missed by just 6 weeks.

Mackenzie's Monument

Why Ocean Falls?  It’s the water…the best tasting and softest water in the world.  It’s so good we can’t figure why some hasn’t converted the towns existing manufacturing capabilities into the world’s best beer brewery. Oh yea, the transportation costs might be a bit high. Just before docking we dropped the crab traps near the outflow of Martin Creek.  We toured the town, dam and lake.  A new bed and breakfast and pub will be opening later this summer.

The water is flowing big-time from Link Lake over the damn at Ocean Falls. Look-out below.

A big log can't quite fit through the spillway.

Captian Mike thinks he can do most anything, including freeing the log above. Here he shows off his balancing finesse prior to log "un-jamming".

Careful Captain Mike.  It's a long way down, then a cold swim too!

"Aw shucks" says Mike.  "I forgot my harness."

#10 Pretty Eucott Bay

The Wild Blue had stopped by Eucott Bay on the return Alaska cruise last August, and it reminded us a bit of Yosemite.  After our ranting and raving, the Seeker crew was eager to visit the Bay. It’s a short 3-hour tour from Bella Coola to Eucott.  The Bay is shallow so best to arrive on a plus tide, which we did at about 11AM.  As we crept into the Bay Seeker noticed an 8-foot shallow spot, meaning there was less than 3 feet under the keel.  Nice to have a rising tide!  Also, it would have been nice to realize at that point the tide was +5 feet, having been ½ foot 3 hours earlier.

Seeker pushes water so photographer Susie can get her shot.

Seeker and Wild Blue at anchor in pretty Eucott Bay.

Eucott has a natural hot springs which has been improved by the locals.  Of course we had the Bay and hot springs to ourselves, but were more excited by a large bear feeding along the shore.  Our first dinghy ride ashore spooked the shy bear inland.  Meanwhile we set crab and prawn traps, explored the creeks and hot springs.  After lunch Pat said I wouldn’t be able to get near enough to the ursus beast to capture a decent photo.  I took up the challenge. 

The bear was feeding again.  Not long out of hibernation, the bears dine on roots and grasses along the shore, while they wait for the salmon and berries.  I slowly motored the dinghy at low rpm, toward the bear from downwind, inching my way closer.  A few geese startled and flew off but the bear found a sweet root and stayed on.  I was close enough…. the new Lumix 20X zoom captured several great shots.  I guess you really don’t have to get that close anymore.

Bear poses for his photo.

Yum, I like salad!

Tonight the tide drops from a high of +17 to a low of +5 so we won't rub bottom while we sleep.  Captain Mike and Alex negotiate tomorrow's exit for Ocean Falls on the rising morning tide. Mike seems to question this happy hour navigation decision, but the evening ends with an11AM exit at +5 rising tide. 

#9 Off the Inside Passage to Bella Coola Again

On Sunday, with the Canadian forecasters again worked up over the weather, we decided to avoid the high coastal winds and waves by moving inland. The Seeker crew wanted to visit Bella Coola and so we set sail, aka fired up the engines, and turned eastward, up Burke Channel and North Bentinck Arm to Bella Coola, some 50 miles off the Inside Passage route.  This town of about 1500 souls has a small marina with transient moorage.  Mostly commercial and sports fishing boats fill the docks and we had a difficult time finding a place to tie up.  The best we could do was “double-park”, also known as side-tying amongst boaters.  Seeker tied to the dock, and then Wild Blue tied to Seeker, with many fenders being sandwiched between the boats and docks.

Bella Coola marina.is set under the snow-covered peaks. Of course most all of BC is under snow-covered peaks this spring!

Double-parked without getting a ticket.

The town is about 3 klicks (kilometers) east of the marina so Pat was forward with a dock tenant as he approached his vehicle, and we were offered a ride.  We visited the town, consumed a couple Sleemans Honey Browns and checked out the local hardware store, which of course was closed on Sunday.  The town was pretty deserted and looked a bit down, but the few people around seemed happy.

Sunday evening the wind blew up into the 20-knot range.  With a few additional lines run to a large steel work boat, the heavy Selenes rocked and rolled, but couldn’t break free of the dock or each other.

#8 Namu

Of all the years we've cruised BC we've never stopped at Namu proper, but instead opted to anchor behind it in Rock Inlet, a very secure weather fortress. Today the Seeker crew is introducing us to Pete and the gals at Namu, the once busy fish cannery town. Namu is located on the mainland shoreline of the Inside Passage to Alaska.  Of course this cannery town was the namesake of the killer whale Namu, who was captured nearby in 1965 and was the second orca ever displayed in captivity.  Namu became a large fishing camp with an ice plant, salmon and herring packing lines, bunkhouses, wharves, hydro plant and fuel facilities and was one of largest salmon canneries on the BC Coast in the 1950’s. As many as 1000 employees lived in Namu.  The arrival of ice plants and brine tanks on fishing boats changed the industry, where previously the boats had to be within an hour's run of the cannery to prevent the catch from spoiling.  This led to the canning outposts' decline. The "large" canning plants were demolished in the 1980s but much of Namu still remains.  Pete and the gals are the present caretakers and live on the property year round, except during the stormy winter months when they move to Rock Inlet, just behind Namu. Pete says they catch salmon right off the floats in mid-summer.  So looks like the Wild Blue will be paying another visit on the Alaska return cruise.

Namu's old restaurant and dinner house

Namu had the largest operating cold storage building in BC.

Just two of the many diesel powered generators that kept the town lighted and heated, and the salmon cold.

Their's lots of scrap metal around, including this coastal freighter which amazingly is still afloat!